The music at Punjabi Dhaba, an Indian restaurant in Inman Square, is the first thing you notice. The Hindi tunes, with their swirling melodies and persistent beat, are loud -- until a customer approaches the counter with an order. Down goes the volume. When you retreat to your seat, the volume goes back up. The kitchen is open, and cooks bustle around with trays of tandoori chicken and piles of fragrant naan bread. Aloo mattar ($4.95) -- peas and potatoes -- is served on a metal tray with partitions for rice, raita, and pickles. The dish is saucy, spicy, and satisfying. Punjabi Dhaba is billed as an Indian roadside cafe, because, it's explained, this is the kind of quick food you'd encounter traveling in India. Complete with a soundtrack.